i2 Counter Weight Kit Instructions
Inspire 2 Counter Weight Kit Instructions
Buy these items (not included with kits)
Additional Tungsten Derby Weights (3g,7g,14g kit) The kit includes some 7g weights but the kits can accept 3g and 7g weights on the Roll arm. Also, rear gimbal plate can accept 3g,4g, or 7g weights beyond what was included.
Tungsten Putty This is essential for trimming the weight to perfect, or to sandwich between motor mounts and counter weight adapters if the fit is not snug.
Silicon Putty Holder Tungsten Putty is messy and sticks to everything. You need this to store it. trust me. (Also, not all tungsten putty is the same, some are fake and very messy and will stain fingers, so use our link)
Electric screw driver with full torx head kit For multiple quick install and uninstall of the rear gimbal plate you need one of these. This one might be the best deal and super easy to store things.
Lead tape. This is to wrap around the adapters for longer focal length, will eliminate vibration. Use the entire roll, then add clear tape around afterwards to seal it up, lead tape is toxic and you don’t want it on your fingers or transfering to children. Wash your hands afterwards, cover with tape.
This counter weight kit works just like the Inspire 3 kit, though it cannot hold as much rear weights as the i3 and the XL version. Most of the same lenses can be balanced, and all the adapters work the same.
HOW TO INSTALL
REAR GIMBAL PLATE
The Gimbal plate is shipped with weights, these are removable. These weights can be swapped out and used on the Pan arm as well if need be.
Remove gimbal plate cover on back of Inspire 2 gimbal. Needs a hex tool (not included). We recommend an electric screw driver with multiple sizes hex/ security bits for the job. https://geni.us/Electric_screwdriver . Keep the screws.
Place Gimbal Counter weight plate on rear of gimbal, using the same screws that were removed. Make sure correct orientation, and plate is snug against fan. Incorrect orientation will not allow snug placement.
Add Tungsten counter weights as needed. Use the large Tungsten weights first, adding one by one at a time. For smaller increment balance changes , use the 3d printed mini disks with the 7g tungsten derby weights. Or use Tungsten Putty directly in the empty counter weight slots for small trimming.
Lock in counter weights with tiny bit of tungsten putty if weights are not snug.
2. ROLL ARM
The roll arm is shipped with counter weights inside, these are removable.
Add the 7g weights one by one till the roll axis is balanced. This is a magnet hold an should be snug but not too tight.
You can use a tiny bit of tungsten putty, rolled into a ball and place on the magnet inside the counter weight holder, and press firmly onto the motor. Should be a snug fit.
Use tungsten putty on inside to fine tune the balance if need be.
PRO TIP. You can use less roll arm counter weights, by shifting the counter weights on the gimbal plate to favor the left side (when looking at the gimbal from the sensor side). This is not necessary, but ultimately means flying with less weight in the air.
3. PAN ARM
The pan arm is shipped with counter weights inside, these are removable. They are a very snug fit, but can be removed by pressing down with force thru the back side. If they still cannot come out, use a heat gun to warm the adapter and weights then try again.
Most lenses need 1 weight, but some heavy lenses will need 2.
This is the least important axis to balance, so it doesn’t need to be super perfect.
You can get the balance in the ballpark, and use tungsten putty to trim if need be.
If weights are shifting (when using 1 weight) , you can lock in the weight with tungsten putty.
HOW TO BALANCE LENSES
1. Gimbal Plate (Tilt)
Add the lens first, then add the 46g weights to the rear gimbal plate. Add enough large weights till you have balance on the up down axis, ignore the roll axis imbalance (hold the gimbal by the roll motor to only focus on tilt for now). Once you have the tilt up / down somewhat balanced, you can fine tune the balance with tungsten putty.
Next, aim the camera lens straight down (ignore the roll imbalance again), and make sure the lens stays pointing straight down. If it tilts up, then move around any tungsten putty or weights that are already on there, to the top of the gimbal. If the lens starts to tilt down and back, then do the opposite, and move the weight towards to bottom. Do this until the lens stays pointed straight down.
NOTE: each lens is different and this step is different for all lenses.
PRO TIP. Take a photo of the back of each weight set up, for quick reference in the future.
2. Roll Arm (ROLL)
Add weight till lens points straight forward and the Left / Right stays motionless.
3. Pan Arm
Attach the gimbal to the drone. Point the lens to one side (all the way to the left or right doesn’t matter). Tip the drones nose forward. If the lens swings around and points forwards, then the lens is too heavy, and we need to add more weight to the Pan Arm. If the lens points backwards, then you’ve added too much weight to the pan arm and take some weight away. This one doesn’t need to be perfect, i’ve noticed very difference from flying with a little heavy or little light, (as long as its in the ballpark, you’re good)